Date Added: Sunday 15 April, 2007
Fitted to a 1995 Mk1 1.8 Gleneagles
Very pleased to have finally done this - I should have fitted electric windows when I got the car but eventually only did it when one of the manual ones failed.
What’s good about the kit – seems nicely made and does, with some inventiveness, actually contain everything you need (but see below). Windows work very nicely. What’s bad – what are laughably supplied as instructions.
How I did it….
Mechanical – This was the easy bit. Removed the door armrest and trim, removed the two window top stops, undid the glass (3 x 10mm bolts) and removed that. Also undid the bolts from the front window rail (to give room to replace the winder). Simply undid the three bolts holding the old mechanism (10 and 14 mm) and removed it through the big hole in the door (in one piece) with a bit of pushing and shoving. I found the best way to fit the electric winders was to remove the extension piece and rotate one of the bolts on the electric winder – this gave two good fixings in the same region as the old winder without any need to drill or file (its easier to see with it in front of you). Then I simply fitted the new electric winder and did all the bolts up.
Electrical – I unapologetically hate messy wiring (if anything goes wrong it will be bad wiring) so I spent some time searching out the ‘proper’ loom connections. In the end it was easy if a little fiddly. For the switch end I bought the proper Mazda window switches (from MX5PARTS) – this assembly just plugs in to the waiting connector under the centre console, finis! Now the cunning bit – I took one of the twin electrical cables provided in the window kit and cut it in half giving something the right length. By removing the flexible rubber channel between the door and post and by gentle wiggling I was able to pull out the Mazda connector (from the post) which contains the speaker connections (two) and electric window connections (two). This was made easier by knocking out the door stop pin to allow the door to open a bit further. I connected this shortened cable to the winder motor and ran it from inside the door, through the flexible rubber channel. I crimped on two medium sized spade terminals which I pushed fully home into the connector out of the post. A quick check that the window worked and then time to close up. Job done!
Rating: [4 of 5 Stars!]